Is a Cruise to Antarctica Worth It?

Is a Cruise to Antarctica Worth It?

Absolutely. Years ago, a client showed me photos of her family’s cruise from Ushuaia to Antarctica. I was riveted. Nothing compared to anything I’d seen before, and bonus points, there were penguins. Lots of penguins. I knew then I had to go. At the end of 2019, just before the pandemic crushed travel, my dream came true, I went to Antarctica and then some. Why haven’t I written about it before? In light of Covid, I chose to wait until travel, especially cruising, was on a more even keel. (Pun intended.)

Investing in a cruise to Antarctica is rarely a snap decision. It’s one of the most remote destinations, the world’s highest, driest and windiest continent, and even the best deals are a pretty penny. But is it worth it? It was for me.

Pros and Cons
World’s most unique and untouched landscapes
Option to fly in if seasickness is a concern
Sea kayaking and mountaineering options available
One-of-a-kind wildlife encounters (penguins, whales, seals)
Easiest way to travel to Antarctica

Is a Cruise to Antarctica Worth It?

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My Epic Adventure visiting the Antarctic Peninsula, South Georgia & Falkland Islands

I sailed aboard the Greg Mortimer, Aurora Expedition’s cutting-edge cruise ship named after the company’s founder and the first Australian to summit Everest. At the time, it was brand-spanking new and on its third departure.

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Greg Mortimer Highlights
Built for polar exploration
X-Bow yields a comfortable ride even in rough seas

The ship was purpose-built for polar regions and the first cruise ship fitted with an Ulstein X-Bow, a toucan-nosed innovation that slices through formidable swells. The ride still feels like a roller coaster, but without the jarring smack when the bow hits the water at the bottom of each wave, known as the slamming effect.

Is a Cruise to Antarctica Worth It?

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From Ushuaia to Antarctica

We departed Ushuaia and headed south by way of the Beagle Channel. By the following morning, we were well into the infamous Drake Passage.

Ushuaia and the Beagle Channel
Disembarkation/embarkation point for cruises
“End of the world” location-wise

Passengers in the know called the rough sea we encountered the “Drake Lake.” I was told the “Drake Shake” is far more formidable. While it may have been true, it didn’t matter. I spent the early morning kneeling on my bathroom tile. Sweaty and cursing my feeble inner ear, I took the seasick pills the ship’s doctor gave me and spent the first part of my day in my room.

Drake Passage 1, Susan 0.

Challenges like this are part and parcel of a true adventure. While unpleasant at the time, I never felt unsafe, and I would deal with the seasickness again for an experience as rich as this. The good news: I––and most of my fellow guests––developed my sea legs quickly, and while we met with two-story waves and gale-force winds during the cruise, I wasn’t sick again.

Landings and Conservation

We went on two landings a day unless at sea or if weather conditions became prohibitive. The weather at the bottom of the world is mighty volatile and a major factor in the day-to-day decisions on an Antarctic expedition. Flexibility in our expectations was essential. For travelers who like guarantees or strict schedules met, Antarctica is not for you.

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Conservation Efforts
Seal Team (leading group of experts and conservationists to protect Antarctica’s environment)
Strict Protocols including cleaning outerwear, disinfecting gear

Is a Cruise to Antarctica Worth It?

Deception Island (South Shetland Islands)

Bundled in layers and clad in waterproof outerwear, our zodiacs skipped across the water towards Whaler’s Bay at the mouth of the ear-shaped caldera and active volcano known as Deception Island.

Deception Island Highlights
Whaler’s Bay and its abandoned whaling station
Pancake volcanic activity and diverse geology

Coming to rest on the black-sand shore, a wall of steam billowed inland as if a brush fire had ignited––the result of the water, heated by geothermal activity, striking cold Antarctic air.

We were there to explore the ruins of Hvalfangerselskabet Hektor, a 1911 Norwegian whaling station. Remnants of decades-old wooden boats littered the landscape. However, a handful of Gentoo penguins with lipstick-red beaks distracted me from diving into my ruin porn. Not to mention, two chinstrap penguins, named for the stripe of black feathers tracing their jawline, tottered about.

Wildlife Encounters

Cuverville Island boasts the third-largest Gentoo penguin colony in the Antarctic Peninsula, with over 8,000 breeding pairs. Our group visited and walked among the colony, observing feeding, courtship rituals, and young chicks.

Types of Penguins Found on Cuverville Island
Gentoo
Rockhopper

Antarctica is an experience that long will linger in my thoughts, far beyond what I have already shared. The landscape, an experience unlike any other. It left me restless and annoyed at its ability to command my emotions.

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